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Chicken & Eggs, roasted potatoes, fried eggs

Chicken and eggs ($20)

When Mr. Refslund first met Acme's owners, he cooked dinner for them "like I used to," making the kinds of things he served at MR. One of the dishes was an elaborate beak-to-tail meditation on the chicken that included barely roasted kidneys, coxcombs braised in red wine, and the liver.

"They asked me if I could bring it a little down because it was too arty farty," Mr. Refslund recalled.

Ten dinners later, his new employers told him he he'd finally modulated his cooking to the level they were looking for. The chicken dish had evolved into something far simpler, pieces of white meat in a sauce that tastes like giblet gravy and roast chicken at the same time. To make it, Mr. Refslund cooks skinless chicken breasts seasoned with garlic, thyme and shallots at a low temperature. The skin is roasted at a higher temperature until it's crisp. He makes a stock with the carcass, then blends in the roasted liver and hearts along with the crisp skin.

The chicken is served in a clay pot with eggs that have been poached, then deep fried. There are also some potatoes that are roasted, then smashed and soaked with chicken stock before being roasted for a few more minutes. Finally, just before serving, the potatoes are fried.

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